Day of the Dead: Celebration, History & Origins
From
the beginning of time, man has felt the need to explain the mystery of life and
death. Many civilizations and cultures have created rituals to try and give
meaning to human existence.
· Where do we
come from?
· Why does
life end?
· Is there
"life" after death?
· If so, what
kind of "life"?
· Can we do
something while alive so we can enjoy "life" after death?
These
are some of the questions man has asked himself in order to understand our
finite existence on this earth.
To the indigenous peoples
of Mexico, death was considered the passage to a new life and so the deceased
were buried with many of their personal objects, which they would need in the
hereafter. Many times even their pets were sacrificed so they would accompany
their masters on their long journey.
From pre Columbian times, El DÃa de
los Muertos, the Day of the Dead has been celebrated in Mexico, and
other Latin countries. This is a very special ritual, since it is the day in
which the living remember their departed relatives. Sometimes, when people of other cultures
hear for the first time about the celebration of the Day of the Dead, they
mistakenly think it must be: gruesome, terrifying, scary, ugly and sad. Nothing
further from the truth, Day of the Dead is a beautiful ritual in which Mexicans
happily and lovingly remember their loved relatives that have died. Much like
when we go to a graveyard to leave some lovely flowers on a tomb of a
relative.
On November 1st
and 2nd Mexico celebrates the Day of the Dead, and there are two
very special places where this ritual is specially impressive:
Mixquic, a small town in Mexico City, and in
Janitzio, a charming little island in the state of Michoacan.
The first inhabitants of
Michoacan, the state where Janitzio is located,
thought that because of the extraordinary beauty of this lake, it was the door
to heaven and that through it the gods used to come down to earth.
One of the vastest and richest kingdoms of
pre-Hispanic times was established in this Mexican state, the
Purepecha Empire, which was able to maintain its independence from
the powerful Aztecs, who at the time had control over most of
Mesoamerica, Middle America.
Like the rest of the pre-Hispanic
civilizations, these people succumbed to the Spanish conquerors, which imposed
their customs, their language and their Catholic religion. The natives acquired
these new cultural elements but blended and adapted them to their own culture;
from this fusion new beliefs and ritual were born, such as the Celebration of
the Day of the Dead.
Michoacan is probably one
of the most representative of the merging of the two cultures, observed in their
magnificent Spanish architecture, its spacious plazas or squares,
and their folklore and religious fervor of their traditions.
Towards the last days of October, the entire
region prepares for the great fiesta of Los DÃas de
Muertos, the Days of the Dead. The square fills with stands that offer
all types of colorful figures allusive to death, the most popular made of
sugar.
Markets are filled with the
cempasúchil flower; this orange marigold was the flower that the
Aztecs used to remember their dead by. Its color represents the tones of earth
and is used to guide the souls to their homes and altars.
Many families grow their own
cempasúchil, believing that doing so is more appropriate for their
offerings. Through their work and their care, these flowers grow and will
finally adorn their ofrendas and their tombs.
Very early in October, all over the country,
bakeries offer the delicious Pan de Muerto, Day
of the Dead bread, made with flour, butter, sugar, eggs, orange peel, anise and
yeast. The bread is adorned with strips of dough simulating bones and at the
top a small round piece of dough that symbolizes teardrops. These breads are
placed on the altars or ofrendas, and are also taken to the tombs
in the graveyard.
Another traditional dish prepared for the
celebration is the tasty Calabaza en Tacha, Sweet Pumpkin, a
dessert prepared with pumpkin, cinnamon, and piloncillo, dark
sugar cones.
Janitzio is one of the islands on lake
Patzcuaro, with 1,500 inhabitants. Little white houses all with red tile roofs
crowd the island, and at the summit the stone statue of one of the fathers of Mexico’s Independence,
José MarÃa Morelos, dominates the view.
To get to the island it is necessary to take
launches that constantly go to and fro Janitzio, carrying and bringing
passengers as well as provisions and merchandise.
There is no busier times for the launches that
on the days of the dead.
On the eve of El DÃa de Muertos,
the boats are loaded with people that are very busy taking the flowers and
essential articles for the celebrations.
The island is dressing up with beauty and
mysticism!
On the lake, one can also see the
fishermen with their traditional nets that grace the view. They are called
Butterfly Nets. Watching the fishermen go out in groups is a bewitching
spectacle, particularly during the early ours of the morning, with the mist and
the calming stillness of the lake. The people of
Janitzio have conserved this form of fishing, as well as other
millenarian customs and traditions that are part of the enchantment of this
island. Especially distinctive is the way in which the women dress, and their
methods of cooking.
In addition to fishing, they complement their
economy with the production of handicrafts for sale to the many visitors that
come to Janitzio, and in many small inns they offer the delicious
pescado blanco, white fish, unique to Lake
Patzcuaro.
Many of the locals work and study outside the
island. Since there is only an elementary school on the islet, when the kids go
on to high school they have to attend schools in Patzcuaro. You
can imagine how striking it is to see the young students on their rowboats,
crossing the lake early in the morning to get to school.
By October
31st, all the houses and shops, as well as the docks are decorated
with cempasuchil flowers and fruits from this region. The whole
community participates enthusiastically in the preparations of this
festivity!
Ofrendas are set up in the
houses for their dead relatives. Generally ofrendas are set up on
a table covered with a tablecloth and papel picado. They are
decorated with sugar skulls, candles, cempasuchil flowers, and
paper mache skeletons. Plates with the favorite foods of their dead relatives
are also set on the ofrenda. Some have also liquor and cigarettes.
On the ofrendas for the deceased children they place toys in
addition to the food.
Characteristic of this region are the wooden
arches that the families create and adorn with cempasuchil and
fruits for the tombs in the cemetery. A very interesting tradition is that for
the first three years that follow the passing away of a person, every November
first, it is the godparents of the deceased who decorate the arch. When they
finish, they go to the parents’ house and lovingly offer it to them.
During the morning
of November 1st, the ceremony in honor of
the Angelitos takes place in the cemetery.
The little angels or angelitos
are the children that died and that could never experience the happiness and
sorrows of adulthood.
Very early the bells of the church start
ringing, calling children’s souls and the living relatives that will attend the
ceremony.
At 6:00 A.M., in the small chapel of
Janitzio, mass has already begun. Remember, this is fundamentally
a Catholic ritual. After mass, the women and children go to the graveyard to
clean and decorate the tombs. They bring with them flowers, bread and fruits in
baskets covered with napkins that they embroidered themselves, as well as the
copal, incense, that they will burn so that the aroma will help
guide the returning souls.
Each family brings with
them in honor of their deceased relatives.
A beautiful view enriches
this mystical moment… in the distance, from the graveyard the fishermen can be
seen with their canoes starting their working day. The lake is so peaceful, as
if welcoming the spirits that are returning home.
Slowly, and quietly, the
cemetery begins to fill up. The music of a band can be heard slowly approaching
the graveyard. It is a family that is carrying an arch accompanied by the
band. Their son died a few months before, and this morning is the first Day of
the Dead that they will be honoring him. This is why they have brought a band
with them.
Music resonates fills the
burial ground.
Around nine in the morning
the ritual in honor of the deceased children ends. In a couple of hours, at
nightfall, the most impressive celebration will begin, the ritual in which the
souls of the deceased adults are honored.
It is surprising how in
such a little island, thousands and thousands of visitors will arrive in order
to witness this beautiful rite.
In the preceding hours,
the carpenters laboriously work to set a stage for the folkloric dances that
will be performed as part of the celebrations.
At night, with
everything ready, the dances begin. The Danza de los Viejitos,
Dance of the Old Men, representative dance of this region. In pre-Hispanic
times this dance was performed as a ritual honoring the Sun.
Another popular dance is
the Pescado Blanco, White Fish, through which the inhabitants of
Janitzio express their gratitude to the lake, since fishing is
their most important economical activity.
Also at night, as a way
of expressing their gratitude to God for all the blessings they have been given,
the fishermen go out to the lake with their canoes, lighting the way with
torches and carrying out an impressive ritual with their butterfly nets.
At midnight it is the
graveyard of the island the place in which living and dead will reunite once
again.
The bell at the entrance
rings all night long, calling the souls to return and enjoy the splendid
ceremony. It is mainly the women and children who silently find the tombs of
their relatives, on which they place the lovely embroidered napkins and set
candles, the flowers and food that their dead so much enjoyed when alive.
This is how the night goes by, with prayers and chants from the women and
children, while the men silently observe what goes on. Their songs and prayers
are elevated to the sky, begging for the eternal rest of the souls and for the
happiness of the living.
The Day of the Dead is a
grand celebration of life itself!
May Herz